We spoke with William Skinner, Managing Director at Dege & Skinner a Savile Row institution and tailor to the Royal family on how to get it right.

New European Economy: Savile Row has a worldwide reputation for excellence in bespoke tailoring. What part has Dege & Skinner played in building that reputation?

William Skinner: The first generation of tailoring tradesmen are recorded in the history books as arriving on what was then known as Savile Street in the 1730’s, but since our business was established in 1865 we like to think we’ve played a part in its continued status as the most prestigious location for bespoke tailoring in the world.Still a family-owned business, we sit at the very heart of Savile Row, both in terms of geographical location at Number 10, but also in terms of reputation and prestige.

As with all holders of the Royal Warrant, we uphold a quality of production and customer service that continues to be respected around the world. Thinking back to the Coronation Festival in the grounds of Buckingham Palace during the Summer, the number of international visitors we met who were drawn to the craftsmanship of the products supplied to the Royal family was enormous and highlights the appeal of what we do.

NEE: Is there much competitiveness between the various tailoring establishments on Savile Row or do you all work together for a common cause?

WS: Of course there’s competition and competitiveness amongst us, but we also endeavour to work together and collaborate on events and activities that help to promote Savile Row and fine bespoke tailoring.In 2004, along with three other key houses we set up the Savile Row Bespoke Association to uphold and protect the art of bespoke tailoring, investing heavily in training and apprenticeships, which are absolutely vital to the lifeblood of our business.

The Association also allows us to lobby for protected rents, which are the only way to ensure the continued existence of tailoring workshops in preference to multi-national brands mass-producing fashion items in overseas factories. There’s nothing wrong with that, but were the Row to be taken over by these global brands, it would certainly undermine and eventually kill off the bespoke trade on Savile Row, which would be detrimental to London and the reputation of our nation.

NEE: How does Dege & Skinner distinguish its offering from that of rivals?

WS: We’re now something of a rarity on the Row in that we’re a family-owned business specialising in the creation of pure bespoke clothing and are totally unique in having a permanent bespoke shirt-cutting department based in the shop, but in terms of style the customer is, and always will be key at Dege & Skinner. Unusually, as well as civilian clothing and shirt-making, we also tailor military uniforms and look after the military dress for the younger members of the Royal Family currently in active service.

NEE: Do trends come and go in the world of tailoring? What styles are currently popular among your customers?

WS: Trends come and go in fashion more so than in bespoke tailoring, but we do notice customer tastes evolve and change over time. Particularly recently we’ve noticed that fashion has been following the styles more normally associated with us on Savile Row. The resurgence of more gentlemanly dressing – formal hats, trouser braces, double-breasted suits – has without doubt been influenced by what we do here on Savile Row.

Our customers tend to have more traditional, classic tailoring tastes sometimes with an unexpected surprise, like a silk scarf suit lining, but rarely do we receive requests for outrageous suits, although Michael Jackson was a fan of our military tailoring and had a number of outfits made by us.

NEE: How do you see the future of bespoke tailoring developing?

WS: The key to the future for our bespoke trade is two-fold. Continue to make the finest bespoke clothes for gentleman with a personal level of customer service from a dedicated team Continue to attract hugely talented young people into the business. Like other houses in the Savile Row Bespoke Association, we invest significantly in an apprenticeship scheme to ensure we have the skills and expertise necessary to maintain this elevated status within the bespoke tailoring world.

The new generation of Cutters and Tailors, male and female, working at Dege are truly inspiring and in most cases, chose to focus on fine tailoring, as opposed to fashion and fashion design, which is to the benefit of us as a business.

Need to know

DEGE & SKINNER

10 Savile Row

London

W1S 3PF

Opening Hours

Weekdays 9.15 – 17.15

Saturday 9.30 – 12.30